Building up Necklines (part 2)

Today's blog post will feature a chiffon neckline build up.  The full breasted lady often struggles with keeping things in check.  Over the years we have helped to prevent numerous 'wardrobe malfunctions'.  We believe that on our wedding day is not the day to wear and over revealing dress.  We don't want the only thing that the guests to notice or remember is our breasts.

This is one of the most unforgettable fails I have ever seen in all my 42 years of working with brides!

 This poor gal probably had a nightmare of a time finding a gown that would fit.  Actually it would be an impossibility to find anything off the rack (which clearly is what she did) that would be proportioned properly to her.

Had she been our bride I would have created the perfect build up to embrace those breasts and yet keep the  original overall look true to conception.

This is one of our brides whose gown was custom made.  The original pictures she brought us had a very open neckline.  When we had our first fitting we asked about her comfort level when Grandma and Grandpa would be in the room.  She thought she would be fine and that the gown was not too revealing.  However!  Grandma came to share our joy on her 'final' fitting and she realized I was right:  She would be more comfortable with more coverage.  

So rather than picking up her gown we were allowed to spend a little more quality time with it and when our bride returned this was the result.  

Whew!  Yes, it does feel more 'bride like' to reveal less on our wedding day.

Revealing too much is a problem often faced by fuller breasted ladies. 

 It's a problem we frequently overcome!

The value of the product.

With a tough economy presiding over us we have seen an increasing trend towards buying online.  When a client starts their shopping adventure it often begins on line.  Of course a savvy client will have researched things before she heads out shopping.  In that research she will no doubt discover a myriad of choices displayed on lovely websites.  Over the past few years there has been an increasing trend copycat dresses.  Of course this has always existed, but the prevalence has risen with the internet and the global market place easily accessible.

As we plan our event we imagine that the dresses that the supplier is offering will be exactly like the picture.  The picture created by a reputable designer:  their personal creation of artwork.  When that photo is seen and then the product the quality and workmanship becomes apparent.  The copycat gown will not be the same as the original design.  When your copycat gown arrives you will find that, nearly without exception, the cut, the fabric, the construction, the embellishments ...everything will be different than the original.  Should you hang the two gowns side by side you will find that they are different on nearly every level:  not even comparable 

Over the last several years increasing numbers of clients have arrived at our salon in distress over an on line order that had gone badly.  It could happen that you get a gown that is satisfactory and you are happy, but there are greater chances for disappointment in the end.  These clients have already spent good money on a gown that is either poorly constructed, ill fit, or can not even be made to work for their event.  The problem is that the price was so alluring.  The prices are often listed on line for far less than the reputable designer is willing or even capable of producing their garments.  This client now finds herself having a lot of stress and is often near desperation because she now has no time to order from the reputable manufacturer.  The reputable manufacturer will take any where from 16 - 32 weeks to produce your quality garment.  The china factory will offer you your product in 3 weeks.  Perhaps that should be one of the first red flags.

She now finds herself having to make her second choice as the first one simply is not available in her time frame.  Or she will need to order on a rush, which drives the costs up as well.

There have been countless law suits for infringement on the works of art that these designers create:

American Bridal & Prom Industry Association, Inc. , Mon Cheri Bridals, LLC , Promgirl, Inc. , Maggie Sottero Designs, LLC , La Femme Boutique, Inc. , Bari-Jay Fashions, Inc. , Alyce Designs, Inc. , Allure Bridals, Inc. , Watters Designs, Inc. , Next Century Productions, Inc. , Mori Lee, LLC , Emme Bridal, Inc. , Simone Cavalli Corp. , Bonny MT Enterprises Co., Ltd. , Casablanca Bridals, Inc. , Impression Bridal, Inc. , Formosa Sunrise LLC , Essense of Australia, Inc., Edward Berger, Inc. , Jovani Fashion Ltd. , Lizzette Brodsky , Frank Disantis, Precious Formals, Inc. , Countess Corporation, Jordan Fashions Corp, Eve of Mi Lady have all been litigants just to name a few. 

What?!?!? I hear you say.  Yes, over the last twenty years the designers of formal gowns have worked very hard to protect their creations.  They are now deemed as works of art.  It is not uncommon for a designer to spend an entire month creating a creation.  She might spend even longer in the actual production of the creation.  Much time and effort goes into the creation of a gown.  Some designers design every aspect of their gowns, the fabric, the lace, the beadwork:  every little detail has involved thought, development and creation.  Yet a desperate Chinese factory might bang out a cheap imitation of the gown and in the neglect of the intimate details create something that is vastly different than the original gown which they are advertising to be offering.

Many reputable designers do not allow their gowns to be made available on the internet.  They protect their works of art and creations valiantly.  They recognize that the product must be seen, touched, tried on to fully appreciate it.  There was a time when artists of this type were respected and appreciated for the great efforts that they took.  Unfortunately today's client tends to have been raised in this hot and now: more for cheap, cheap, cheap society.  So the belief has developed that the product has little to no value in spite of the tremendous efforts that are involved in creation.  I seldom hear a client exclaim:  Oh my goodness!  That must have taken months to make that!!  And indeed it did.  No, we no longer hear that sort of appreciation.  What we do hear on a regular basis is that "the cost of a gown is ridiculous!"   I mean after all, it is only going to be worn for one day.  As an artist this is very demeaning and depressing to experience.  After all, the money is not what anyone would define as great, so clearly the efforts are acts of love.

So you know the old saying:  "If it's too good to be true:  it probably isn't true."  While you may only wear this gown for one day:  you will have a life time of memories to accompany you.

New Year - New Blog Series!

Here at Bella Sposa Bridal, we've noticed that many girls coming in to buy dresses have a hard time describing exactly what they're looking for.  The problem is, of course, not everyone has spent 30+ years working in the wedding industry, or has studied the history of clothing and fashion in a classroom setting, or has worked as a seamstress, like our staff has.  In an effort to remedy this, we will feature a series of blog posts on definitions of common sewing and fashion terms, which will run for the next several weeks.  We'll teach necklines, skirt styles, hem lengths, train lengths, veil styles and lengths, fabric types, and general style terms.

These posts will be conjuctive with our Glossary where we will also be creating images to clarify the definitions.

To begin with, here's a quick breakdown of sewing terms to help you interpret style descriptions in magazines and appear informed when you come in to look at gowns, or when you describe your perfect dress to your friends and family. 

Seam:  A joining of two pieces of fabric to construct a garment.  You can find the seams in whatever clothing you're wearing now to see how they're put together. 

Seam Allowance:  This refers to how much fabric is contained within the seam - in other words, the width of the edge of the fabric to the stitching (seam).  The seam allowance is hidden on the inside of the garment, and determines how much (if at all) the garment can be taken out, if it needs to be a larger size.  Seam allowance is measured in terms of inches; for instance - 1/4", 3/4", 5/8", etc. 

Hem:  The bottom of any garment is a hem, and the way the fabric is finished at the bottom can create a variety of effects.  These will be covered in further detail down the road.

Bodice:  This is the part of the dress that covers the torso - the bust to the waist.  The bodice can meet the skirt just under the bust - called an Empire waist; at the natural waist; or below - known as Drop Waist.

A Princess Cut gown does not have a separate bodice and skirt, but instead has vertical seams that run from top to bottom, to provide the dress shaping.

Lining:  Most formal gowns have more than one layer.  The inmost layer is called the dress lining.  Often this is constructed from a lightweight fabric to reduce bulk.  Keep in mind when you are having a dress altered that the changes made to your dress - sides in or out, hem shortened, lengthened, or reshaped - will also need to be done to the lining, and any additional layers between it and the dress itself.  This will be covered in greater detail when we discuss the cost of alterations.

Crinoline:  Full skirts in bridal, prom, and bridesmaids gowns almost always have a built-in crinoline, which is a gathered layer of stiff tulle or net that provides the "poof" of the gown.  We also rent out separate slips and crinolines if the built-in layer does not create the desired effect.

An example of a full crinoline slip

On the other hand, a built-in crinoline can also be removed if "poof" is not what you're looking for.  Built-in crinolines are another layer that often needs to be altered, especially when hems are shortened.  This can mean a great deal of extra work for the seamstress, as this layer is gathered - which means the overall length of material to be hemmed is greater - so expect to be charged accordingly at alterations time.

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