New Year - New Blog Series!

Here at Bella Sposa Bridal, we've noticed that many girls coming in to buy dresses have a hard time describing exactly what they're looking for.  The problem is, of course, not everyone has spent 30+ years working in the wedding industry, or has studied the history of clothing and fashion in a classroom setting, or has worked as a seamstress, like our staff has.  In an effort to remedy this, we will feature a series of blog posts on definitions of common sewing and fashion terms, which will run for the next several weeks.  We'll teach necklines, skirt styles, hem lengths, train lengths, veil styles and lengths, fabric types, and general style terms.

These posts will be conjuctive with our Glossary where we will also be creating images to clarify the definitions.

To begin with, here's a quick breakdown of sewing terms to help you interpret style descriptions in magazines and appear informed when you come in to look at gowns, or when you describe your perfect dress to your friends and family. 

Seam:  A joining of two pieces of fabric to construct a garment.  You can find the seams in whatever clothing you're wearing now to see how they're put together. 

Seam Allowance:  This refers to how much fabric is contained within the seam - in other words, the width of the edge of the fabric to the stitching (seam).  The seam allowance is hidden on the inside of the garment, and determines how much (if at all) the garment can be taken out, if it needs to be a larger size.  Seam allowance is measured in terms of inches; for instance - 1/4", 3/4", 5/8", etc. 

Hem:  The bottom of any garment is a hem, and the way the fabric is finished at the bottom can create a variety of effects.  These will be covered in further detail down the road.

Bodice:  This is the part of the dress that covers the torso - the bust to the waist.  The bodice can meet the skirt just under the bust - called an Empire waist; at the natural waist; or below - known as Drop Waist.

A Princess Cut gown does not have a separate bodice and skirt, but instead has vertical seams that run from top to bottom, to provide the dress shaping.

Lining:  Most formal gowns have more than one layer.  The inmost layer is called the dress lining.  Often this is constructed from a lightweight fabric to reduce bulk.  Keep in mind when you are having a dress altered that the changes made to your dress - sides in or out, hem shortened, lengthened, or reshaped - will also need to be done to the lining, and any additional layers between it and the dress itself.  This will be covered in greater detail when we discuss the cost of alterations.

Crinoline:  Full skirts in bridal, prom, and bridesmaids gowns almost always have a built-in crinoline, which is a gathered layer of stiff tulle or net that provides the "poof" of the gown.  We also rent out separate slips and crinolines if the built-in layer does not create the desired effect.

An example of a full crinoline slip

On the other hand, a built-in crinoline can also be removed if "poof" is not what you're looking for.  Built-in crinolines are another layer that often needs to be altered, especially when hems are shortened.  This can mean a great deal of extra work for the seamstress, as this layer is gathered - which means the overall length of material to be hemmed is greater - so expect to be charged accordingly at alterations time.

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